I'll Tell You What Needs Fixing. And What Doesn't.

Under-cabinet mold is almost always worse than what you see. A slow drip from a supply line or P-trap wets the subfloor underneath the cabinet, where there's no airflow and no light. Mold colonizes the subfloor, the bottom of the cabinet, and often the wall behind it. By the time you see it at the front edge, it's established deeper. In McLoud's older homes with pier-and-beam foundations, that moisture also drops into the crawl space. I pull the cabinet, assess the subfloor, test for mold species, and remove everything that's contaminated. The fix isn't bleach — it's containment, removal, and drying.

Yes. Galvanized pipes corrode from the inside over decades. Water pressure drops gradually — you might not notice until a joint fails. And it usually fails during a freeze, at 3 AM, in a wall you can't see. McLoud regularly hits the teens in January. Many homes here still have original plumbing. If you've never replaced it and you're seeing low water pressure or discolored water, those are warning signs. I handle the water damage when a pipe does burst — but knowing where your shut-off valve is can save you thousands in the meantime.

The original McLoud townsite was flooded and rebuilt on higher ground. The new location is better positioned, but McLoud still sits in Oklahoma's severe storm corridor with Indian Creek and North Canadian River tributaries nearby. Flash flooding from 4-5 inches of rain in a few hours overwhelms drainage. Standard homeowners insurance does NOT cover flood. If you're near a creek or in a low-lying area, talk to your agent about a flood rider. If water gets in, call me immediately — the 24-48 hour mold window doesn't negotiate.

Secure the opening first. Wind-damaged skirting exposes the underside of the home — moisture and pests get in immediately. A compromised roof means every rain that follows causes interior water damage. I provide emergency tarping and board-up to stop further water intrusion, then extract any water, set up drying equipment, and assess mold risk. Mobile homes dry differently than site-built homes — the materials are thinner and moisture moves through them faster. Speed matters more, not less.

Could be either, or both. A musty earthy smell is likely mold — decades of ground moisture in an unsealed crawl space with organic wood framing. A rotten-egg or sewage smell points to a cracked cast iron sewer line or a failing septic connection. In McLoud's older homes, I see both situations regularly. I inspect the crawl space, test the air quality, and identify the source. If it's mold, I remediate and install a vapor barrier. If it's a sewer issue, I coordinate with a plumber while handling the contamination cleanup.

Yes — in fact, that's the norm. The fire department uses water to put out fires. A kitchen fire that took 10 minutes to extinguish can leave 200-400 gallons of water in your home. Lightning strikes that spark electrical fires in the attic get hit with water from suppression. You end up with fire damage, smoke damage, AND water damage all at once. I handle the full scope — soot removal, smoke odor treatment, and structural drying. If your smoke detectors and fire department did their job, water damage is usually the bigger issue.

40 minutes on I-40 East. That's the same drive as Shawnee, and I work in Shawnee regularly. In an emergency, I'm headed your direction as soon as you hang up the phone. Most of the damage from a water event happens in the first 24 hours — not the first 40 minutes. What matters is getting professional equipment running before mold starts, which is 24-48 hours. I'm well inside that window. And I bring everything I need on the first trip — no return for supplies.

Yes, significantly. Homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint. Homes built before 1980 may have asbestos in flooring, pipe insulation, or ceiling tiles. When these materials get wet, disturbing them improperly creates airborne hazards. I identify potential asbestos and lead during assessment. If present, affected materials must be handled by licensed abatement specialists before I can remove water-damaged drywall, flooring, or insulation. This adds time but protects your family's health.