Water Damage.
I Handle It.

Category 1 is clean water — a supply line, faucet, or ice maker. Annoying, but manageable. Category 2 is gray water — dishwasher overflow, washing machine, or sump pump failure. You don't want to wade in it. Category 3 is black water — <a href='/services/water-damage/sewage-cleanup/'>sewage</a> or floodwater. I'll handle that one. You go get coffee. The category determines the scope. Cat 1 might be extraction and drying. Cat 3 involves antimicrobial treatment, potential tear-out, and significantly more documentation. I assess the category on-site during the initial inspection.

It depends on the cause. Sudden and accidental events — pipe bursts, appliance failures, storm damage — are typically covered under standard homeowner policies. Gradual damage, neglected maintenance, and flooding from external sources may not be covered, or may require separate flood insurance through NFIP. I work with your carrier from day one. I scope in Xactimate, document to IICRC standards, and handle the back-and-forth with your adjuster so you don't have to.

Typical <a href='/services/water-damage/structural-drying/'>water damage drying</a> takes 3-5 days. I'll tell you on day one what to expect based on the moisture readings, the materials affected, and the extent of saturation. I take readings every day and text you the numbers — you'll see the moisture dropping. The equipment comes out when the readings hit target, not before. I don't stretch timelines.

You're fighting physics. Water doesn't just sit on surfaces — it absorbs into drywall, subfloor, carpet pad, insulation, and wood framing. An LGR dehumidifier pulls moisture out of the air, which forces the wet materials to release their stored water into the air, which the dehumidifier pulls again. It's a cycle. Rushing it means leaving moisture behind. Moisture left behind means <a href='/services/mold-removal/'>mold</a> in two weeks. Patience now saves you a mold job later.

In most cases — yes. The equipment is loud. I won't pretend otherwise. But it's safe, and you can be in the house while it runs. I'll work around your schedule and minimize disruption. If there's a safety concern — Category 3 contamination, electrical risk, or structural instability — I'll tell you straight. Your safety is the only thing I won't negotiate on.

The water doesn't stop working just because you stopped watching it. Every hour, moisture is wicking deeper into your subfloor, framing, and insulation. <a href='/services/mold-removal/'>Mold</a> can begin colonizing wet drywall in 24-48 hours. But here's the thing — half my calls start with "I should have called sooner." You're calling now. That's what matters. I'll assess where things stand and tell you exactly what needs to happen.

I use commercial-grade equipment — not the kind you rent at a hardware store: LGR dehumidifiers that pull up to 18 gallons daily, commercial air movers for accelerated evaporation, FLIR thermal camera for moisture inside walls, professional moisture meters for exact readings, HEPA air scrubbers filtering 99.97% of airborne particles, and Injectidry systems for drying wall cavities without removing drywall.

Good question. Here's the checklist: IICRC certified (not just "trained," but holding a current WRT or ASD certification), licensed and insured in Oklahoma, real reviews on Google (not 5 reviews from last month that all sound the same), owner accountability (who actually shows up?), and Xactimate competency — if they can't scope in the software your insurance uses, you'll be fighting your claim alone.

Mitigation is the critical first response — stopping the damage, <a href='/services/water-damage/emergency-water-removal/'>extracting water</a>, <a href='/services/water-damage/structural-drying/'>drying the structure</a>, preventing mold. That's what I do. Restoration (or reconstruction) is the rebuild — replacing drywall, repainting, installing new flooring. That's a different trade, and I refer or coordinate with licensed contractors for that work. I specialize in mitigation because the first 24-48 hours determine everything. I do one thing. I do it right.

In Oklahoma? Absolutely. A February freeze event can drop temperatures below zero overnight. Pipes in exterior walls, crawlspaces, attics, and garages are the most vulnerable. When they burst, they can release hundreds of gallons before anyone notices — especially if you're at work or asleep. Freeze damage is one of the most common <a href='/emergency/'>emergency water damage</a> calls I get between December and March.

Moisture meters. That's the whole answer. I don't trust "looks dry" or "feels dry." I trust numbers. I take readings at 28+ points across the affected area — walls, floors, subfloor, framing — and I don't stop drying until every single reading is below the target threshold (typically 14% moisture content for wood framing, 1% for concrete). You see the readings. I text them to you daily. The numbers don't lie.

It happens. When an adjuster's estimate comes in lower than my scope, I submit a supplement with documentation — moisture readings, thermal images, IICRC S500 standards that justify the scope of work. I don't argue opinions. I submit evidence. Photos, readings, industry standards, and code requirements. Most supplements get approved because the documentation leaves no room for debate. If your adjuster has questions, give them my number. I'll handle it.